The keep of Osaka Castle. This is the third keep on the site and was built after a successful public funding campaign in the 1920s

It is 1583.  Oda Nobunaga has been assassinated, and Nobunga’s right hand man, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, has avenged his death and is in the process of consolidating his own power.  Of course, the aspiring ruler needed a palace worthy of his standing, and so construction started on Osaka Castle.  The castle was modeled after Oda Nobunaga’s fortification at Azuchi Castle, but bigger and grander in every way.  The location was also carefully chosen, with the new castle being placed on the site of a fortified temple full of warrior monks who had opposed Nobunaga, erasing the site of the temple, the monks, and every trace of the rebellion.  This also played off of the idea that Toyotomi was Nobunaga’s rightful successor.  Sadly, large, grand castles take a long time to build, and as the final touches and turrets were finally being completed, Toyotomi Hideyoshi fell ill and died in 1597.  The now complete castle then passed to the second generation of Toyotomi Daimyo, the four year old Toyotomi Hideyori.

Two street performers duel in front of Osaka Castle

After the death of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of his trusted vassals, Tokugawa Ieyasu took power and was declared Shogun in 1600.  This created a problem, as Toyotomi made all of his closest advisors and supporters swear an oath to support his infant son and, when he was old enough, support him as ruler of all Japan.  Of course, Ieyasu wanted his children to rule Japan.  In 1615, as Toyotomi Hideyori grew into adulthood, Osaka castle was besieged and destroyed by Shogunate forces and the Toyotomi clan, only two generations old, was snuffed out.  This event creates a bit of controversy, and many books and documentaries I have seen on the Edo period claim that Tokugawa Ieyasu destroyed Osaka Castle and killed Toyotomi Hideyori on very thin excuses of increased fortifications.  In doing this, he violated his oath and betrayed his friend and former master.  The issue with this narrative is that Tokugawa Ieyasu retired as Shogun in 1605, ten years before the fall of Osaka Castle.  Of course, Ieyasu obviously still had a lot of control and influence over the country and over his son, the second Shogun Tokugawa Hidetada.  He probably told his son that Toyotomi would need to be dealt with.  However, Tokugawa Ieyasu didn’t lead the attack as Shogun.  His son Hidetada did, and in fact father and son disagreed on how to conduct the campaign.  And I admit it is kind of a technicality, but history is full of kings and rulers who instructed their sons and heirs to do the things they promised not to do themselves.

With the Toyotomi Clan erased and the country at peace, Tokugawa Hidetada ordered Osaka Castle rebuilt as a grand palace, with all of the other daimyo ordered to provide materials and support. This second castle survived the rest of the Edo period in peace until the Edo’s violent conclusion in the Boshin War.  In the opening battles, the Shogunate forces fled to Edo, leaving Osaka Castle open to Imperial supporters, who promptly seized and burned the castle, which lay in ruins until the Taisho Period mayor of Osaka City launched a successful public funding campaign to rebuild Osaka Castle.  This concrete and steel replica, faithful to the Edo period structure in appearance, still stands today.  The castle grounds were one of the largest armories in Imperial Japan during WWII and were heavily attacked.  While over 90% of the castle and armory complex were destroyed, the keep survived.  Today, the castle keep has been repaired several times over the years, and today stands as a local history museum.

Osaka castle and the castle grounds. Much of the grounds were destroyed during WWII, but the keep managed to survive.

We had the privilege to visit Osaka Castle over the 2015 holiday season, and while the grounds and exterior of the castle are incredible, the museum inside is a bit disappointing.  When we were there, two of the floors were empty, with no exhibitions.  The other floors had a lot of picture and displays, but nothing super interactive or that sets it apart from other museums I’ve seen.  If you do want a good museum in Osaka about the city’s history, the Osaka City Museum of History is next to the castle and is much more interactive, taking up multiple floors of a large, modern building.

A neon sign from Osaka in the 1950s

All said, Osaka Castle is a very beautiful place to visit, and if you are in Osaka, it is definitely worth visiting.  However, if you only have time to enjoy one museum, go to the Museum of History next door.  And of course, you should visit Osaka, as the city has much more to see and do.  But that is for a different trip and a different article.

The old Osaka City Museum Building. This western style building was originally the first Imperial Army Headquarters and was targeted for destruction by U.S. air raids in the war. Somehow, the building survived the war, and served for a time as the city police department before serving as the city museum. In 2001, the current Museum of History opened, and this building fell out of use. Currently, it is not open to the public.